For six weeks, the editors of New York and Grub Street are publishing a series of definitive lists that declare the absolute best versions of 101 things to eat, drink, and do. When it comes to Chinese food, no dish inspires more passionate argument than the different styles and qualities of that imperial Mandarin delicacy, Peking duck. So consider this highly subjective ranking — which includes lavish nightclub establishments, venerable Chinese restaurant chains, and a small West Village basement operation that serves only duck — our contribution to this ancient ongoing debate.
4. Philippe by Philippe Chow
33 E. 60th St., nr. Madison Ave.; 212-644-8885
There are many reasons not to visit this clamorous Mr. Chow rival (the dim, narrow, noisy rooms; the uneven quality of the menu; the entitled, yammering clientele), but the excellent house Peking duck isn’t one of them. The scallions are a little withered, but the pancakes are just the right size, and the mahogany-colored bird is decadently rich without being too fatty and professionally sliced tableside.